Hakodate post script

It’s snowing. In Japan, they have twenty words for snow. This snow is known as stickto.  Then it stopped snowing, the skies magically cleared to reveal glittering stars and the temperature dropped. What once was a walk in crunchy snow, rapidly turned in to treacherous slide about.  There is a word for this, likelytoendonyourarse. (enough japaneseisms, ed). Made my way via tram and cable car to the top of Mount Hakodate. It really was worth the trip (blog passim). It was just a quick 10 mins at the top as it was closing early at 21:00. The staff manage to combine a loud voice with clear instructions without shouting. Amazing how they herded all the Chinese tourists and an English Man back down from the observation point.

After ramen and beer in a local hostelry, that also closed early, at 22:00, I gave up any sense of valour in walking and opted for a taxi home. The roads and paths are all frozen over and deserted, except for other taxis.
The car was the ubiquitous Toyota Crown Comfort in black. The leather seats where topped with white lace anti-maccasers. The driver resplendent in his black suit, peaked cap and white gloves. We set off like the gangster hitmen in Bullitt. I tightened my lap belt, we fishtailed and snaked up the road, sliding around the corners, never once losing control. His fingers skipped round the steering wheel like a Busby Berkeley dance routine. We arrived under the hotel canopy, I looked behind, there was no sign of the Mustang and the only person wearing tweed and a turtle neck was the Author.

Hakodate Fish Market

One thing you note, very early in a trip to Japan, is the amount of fish eaten and on menus. Hakodate’s fish market is a traditional one. Large square building with stalls ringing the walls both inside and outside. Within the centre of the hall the stalls are in rows. Each stall shows off its wares in regimented rows, shellfish, crabs, fish, roe. Dried fish hanging from hooks. Often the stalls are backed by glass tanks with squid, octopus and crabs taking residence. The whole scene being a marine biologists heaven or hell, depending on whether thet where hungry? From each stall it is possible to buy your choice have ever it prepared to eat straight away in its restaurant upstairs. One had a large tank centre stage full with swimming squid. They provide rod and line so you could catch your own. Woops of excitement when one was hooked. The fishmonger then prepared it immediately, never going near heat or flame, the strips of the clear flesh being eagely devoted with just a dip in soy. More Woops as stallholder had the, just removed, squids head dancing on its tentacles.

Fortunately I’d just eaten