Day Trip To The Coast

Must be read in a Michael Portillo voice “My guidebook says the region is characterised by its splendid scenery, ranging from prolific rice fields, to rugged coastlines”

For the beginning 30 minutes of this days journey, Niigata to Akita, the first part has been absolutely right. Almost immediately after leaving, we cleared the docks and industrial area, since then the line has been bordered by rice fields. The housing has changed to a more traditional type with four sided pagoda style roofing. Then a huge big chemical plant.

It never happens like that for Portillo.

My steed for the day is a rather grand looking Series E653. More business like than his long nosed cousins, that i’ve been used to.

For the 2nd hour of the journey we have indeed been encountering the rugged coastline. The train is following it closely, punctuated only by tunnels and small fishing villages. It’s a wild windy day for those coastal dwellers. Seas breaking over harbour walls, full fishing fleets tied up for safety. Strangely, most of the beachouses passed have allotments, with leeks and cabbages still in the ground. They maybe come ready salted. The only pretence to protection they have is that they are dug in to hollows with small fences circling them.

Now half way through the 4 hour journey we have turned inland and returned to rice fields on both sides, now seen bordered with snow. These open fields saw a train on this service blown off the tracks in 2005. There where 3 cars derailed, lives lost and lessons learned.

But what about food

Before encountering today’s journey, mileage was done looking for breakfast. Intending not to have hotel food, I’m struggling to understand what the Japanese eat early in the morning. Noodle shops are open, don’t fancy that. Convenience Stores (Konbini) fill the gap. So it was coffee, steamed pork filled thing (Nikuman) and what looks and tastes like a hotdog floating in brine.

The journey continues

With high, snow topped, mountains to the east we are being forced back towards the coast.

On taking a visit to the urinal, yes again one on a train, it seems like JR, provide you with sideways facing seats, so you can take selfies with the sea as the background.

On the cliff tops now, the rice paddys are now terraced, making use of all the available space down to the sea. A small beach resort with a green watered lido, it’s only resident a heron keeping a watchful eye over the deep end.

Coming towards the end of this 170mile 3 1/2hr journey and on the landward side of the tracks, the rice paddys persist, butting up to the factories. There is no wasted space.

To show my influence, even to the running of Japanese railways, we shall be arriving at Akita 50 (Fifty) minutes late.

Akita

Hey Akita, is it cold, in your little corner of the world?

Damn right it is. Windy, snow flurries and dark. What sort of welcome is that! Straight to the Hotel. Nice hotel, on the 9th floor great views of the department store next door. Straight out for food, leave the bar hopping for after.

Portillo voice again ” the regions most famous speciality dish is Kiritampo, a substantial stew of chicken, mushrooms, onions, glass noodles and the key ingredient, mochi, rice pounded around cedar sticks before grilling” So why was the first thing to arrive a hotplate, shortly followed by a bowl.

On lifting the lid I realise that, except for the rice, everything else including the chicken is uncooked.

After about 10 minutes, the pot is steaming merrily away, seems like a good sign. A further 15 and…

… hunger sated for another day.